Sunday 29 June 2014

Santiago

I've arrived! After six weeks (exactly) and 1,000 Km of walking I'm here.

As with my previous Caminos, the destination is strangely not what's significant. Of course it's good to arrive, and Santiago is a most fascinating place. But, for me, the journey is what's important. And the Via de la Plata, with touches of the Camino Sanabres and the Camino Mozarabes, has been really something else.

I actually arrived here on Thursday. Due to various adventures (previously recorded) which resulted in me covering more distance some days than I had intended, I got to Santiago two days before the hotel booking I'd previously made. I decided to use the two days to visit A Coruna as I don't know when I might be in this part of the world again. But first, Santiago.

This, my third arrival here, also brought me into the city by a third different route. My first visit, in 2011, from the Camino Frances was perhaps the most impressive in arrival. Approaching the city from the East, one first sees the city, and the breathtaking view of the cathedral from the heights of Monte Gozo. I don't think I will ever forget that sight. Then, last year, entering from the south on the Camino Portugues, I came through more of the city's residential and commercial suburbs. This time the approach was from the south east. I seemed to be walking in the country almost until I hit the city's inner roads.



I didn't see the cathedral towers until I was almost upon them.


Sadly, the old girl doesn't look too good at present. She's shrouded in scaffolding and protective netting.



But still the crowds keep coming!

A very noticeable feature this year is that I don't know anyone here. Whilst I understand this because there are so few pilgrims walking the Via de la Plata, it's quite strange. My last contact with a fellow pilgrim was about one hour before Santiago when I walked with a young Spanish lady from Bilbao whom I'd met several times earlier.

Before heading off to A Coruna, I visited  the Peregrino Office to obtain my Compostela (the certificate of authentication for the walk). This is, for me, perhaps following common practice rather than seeking recognition. I consider the value of the Camino comes to me from the walk itself and from my fellow walker, Jesus.

The queue, and the wait at the Peregrino Office was the longest of the three I've experienced. Perhaps this is evidence of the growing popularity of Camino walking, especially of the Camino Frances. I passed the time in pleasant conversation with a young American boy who goes home to begin university studies. His reflections on his Camino experience were quite deep and significant.

With the certificate firmly in my possession I headed to the railway station and the train, due in 10 minutes, for A Coruna. I mused that it would take me 2-3 days to walk there; the train took 28 minutes. I liked A Coruna. It's a big, bustling city with a port on one side of the centre, and a beach on the other side.


Gosh, it was good to see the sea.

A most significant event occurred at A Coruna - I buried my boots! I was aghast to find, when only 200 Km out from Sevilla, that they had started to die, first the right foot, then the left.




I prayed they'd get me to Salamanca. They did! I then prayed for them to get me to Santiago and, with the help of some black adhesive tape, they did!! But their job was done. I thanked them and let them go, peaceably, at A Coruna.


A Coruna was a deliberate choice. I thought if I buried them on the Camino they might have felt obliged to keep walking!!!

On my return, sin botas, to Santiago, I readily found my hotel and got settled in. The concierge was welcoming and extremely helpful. In addition to the cathedral Compostela she also told me of a certificate available at the Convento San Francisco, which is celebrating the 800 year anniversary of the saint's pilgrimage to Santiago. And so, 800 years later I follow in the footsteps of my illustrious namesake. I decided to visit the convent.


Francis is one of my heroes, and I'm looking forward to re-visiting Assisi on the Italian leg of this adventure in a few days time. (Keep checking the Blog!)

Let me state that I don't attach any great value to these "pieces of card" that I'm gathering, though I wish my schoolboy Latin was up to giving me a good translation of their content. But they are mementoes of some memorable times and may stir fond remembrances in days to come.

Tomorrow I head for Barcelona and a stay of two days. I now have time for reflection on this wonderful Camino. I hope to log some insights and understandings in the next few days.

After Barcelona, I move on to Italy for the final few weeks of this European Adventure '14. As always I commit each day to God, thanking Him for His company and praying that we will together enjoy the ongoing adventure.










No comments:

Post a Comment