Istanbul, Athens and ...!

Athens, Friday 1st July 2011

My first full day in Istanbul was a Sunday. Many shops were open, but not all. Pavement space in front of all shops, in main streets and many side streets, was taken up with hawkers selling a variety of goods. And all of Istanbul, it seems, plus a good many visitors were out and about.

My hotel was well located. Just a short walk down our side street reached a major road which turned out to be the main link to the Sultanahmet area with the Agia Sofia Museum and Blue Mosque. The day was hot and the sun strong but it was good to be out and seeing the sights. The more I'm travelling the more I'm seeing the overwhelming presence - and influence - of goods and merchandise. It would seem that so many people are possessions-possessed. I am truly staggererd at the number of clothes shops, in every city I've visited. I recall my experience on Folegandros and the reminder about a simplicity of life. There are times when simplicity takes a lot of searching out.

I enjoyed Istanbul but the crowds, the different culture and the acute awareness that I didn't speak the local language decided me that I would spend my second day out of the city centre. I had read a travel article on the old Istanbul ferries plying across the Bosphorus. This sounded just what I wanted. But it was not to be!!

First, I needed to locate the Metro station in the nearby square as it was my chosen means of getting to the airport the next day (I choose local transport because it takes me out of the 'tourist mould' and allows me to see something of everyday life and the people). My search for the Metro failed miserably and I could find no one who spoke enough English to help me. Not to worry, there was a ferry terminal not too far away and my boat awaited me. A short walk (well, not really long for one who has covered 750 km in Spain) and I was there. But no quaint, romantic harbour ferries awaited. These were long-distance car-carrying ferries. My total lack of Turkish failed me. The ticket officer did his best but, notwithstanding, I ended up with an expensive return ticket to a town across the Sea of Marmara and some way down the coast. I decided by now that God had to be in charge - I certainly wasn't!

Yalova turned out to be quite an adventure. The crossing took one and a half hours, and one of my first encounters after landing was the local market-cum-bazaar. This was no tourist attraction, but down-to-earth country shopping. The atmosphere was wonderful. Similarly, the streets contained no-nonsense shops and, perhaps best of all, no one pestered me to buy things I didn't need. After a good time in rural Turkey I returned to Istanbul by a faster, passenger only ferry.

The hotel concierge put me right concerning the Metro (why didn't I ask him in the first place?) I checked it out that night, and finished my stay in Istanbul with a grand Turkish meal ate street-side in a local restaurant.

And so to Athens. Yes, Athens!
I should have guessed something was amiss when my Olympic Air flight was delayed by one and a half hours. But I remained blissfully unaware. In due time I arrived in Athens, cleared customs and knowingly made my way to purchase a ticket for the X95 bus into the city centre. But the ticket office was closed and a notice informed me that there were no buses or trains today (or tomorrow) due to strikes. The airport was in chaos. My first move was - to have a cup of coffee!! Then, I grudgingly joined the lengthy taxi queue. I really didn't relish paying ten times more for the ride to the city. Surprisingly the queue quickly reduced and I was in the cab. A further surprise was the driver's reaction when I told him the name of my hotel in Syntagma Square. We couldn't possibly go there! But I've got a reservation, and nowhere else to stay!! I asked him to take me as near as he dared and I would walk the rest. He agreed. He actually took me to the next street, which worked out well.

Fortunately, the hotel is just off the Square, but not so far away as to miss all the action. However, just a few metres the other way and all is well. In the first day I managed to see many sights without going near the Square. The afternoon and evening were exciting when the action got closer to the hotel. And the following day, although Syntagma Square was mob free, and slowly returning to normal, the residue of the tear gas hung on the air causing stinging eyes and lots of sneezes. My 'Walking Tour' of Athens had to be adjusted slightly: the National Garden and a couple of other sites were closed and the Parliament building was road-blocked and surrounded by hundreds of police, but passable after answering a couple of questions.

My visit was not unduly hampered by the unrest, but neither was it enhanced. I'm told that the protesting crowd was, by and large, comprised of peaceful demonstrators, but a core of agitators stirred up much trouble. And, of course, everyone suffered. I really don't know what the demonstrations were meant to achieve, other than allow people to let off steam. The damage to property, whilst not too severe, was all too evident the next day. Who knows what the damage to individuals might be? And I don't think the State (which is ultimately the people) benefitted in any way.

There are times when we may feel forced or obliged to express how we feel. How we do so is all important.