Another way

My luxury stop at Zamora was not totally blissful. I'd been there just a short time when ugly and painful insect bites appeared on my arms. I was puzzling over where I'd encountered mozzies when the wretched truth dawned on me - the origin of my bites were probably the dreaded bed bugs, and the scene of the crime was likely the albergue where I thought I'd spent the night in splendid isolation. Splendid isolation, my foot, I'd obviously had quite a bit(e) of company!!

Fortunately a few measly (but grossly uncomfortable) bites were not going to detract from my enjoyment of a taste of luxury. After my two days of luxury I awoke to find that the bites were now complemented by an upset stomach. What next? Previous Camino experience had taught me that minor ailments are not to interfere with the day's progress. This day I had hoped to move on from Zamora to Riego del Camino, a major effort of 31 Km. Well, let's get on with it!

By lunchtime I had reached Montamarta. I took weak tea at the bar in deference to my delicate stomach. I also decided against cutting short my day at Montamarta. I would continue on a further 11.8 Km to Fontanillas de Castro. I set off out of the town and past the Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo.

The scenery was quite beautiful but, alas, there was absolutely no shade and the afternoon sun was beginning to bite. I met up with a South African pilgrim and we walked together. He was concerned that his diminished water supplies were fast reaching boiling point in the scorching heat. The temperature was surely around the 40 degree C mark. Making some comment about idiot walkers, we simply had to keep going, there was no option. We literally crawled into Fontanilles. It was a one horse, one very poor bar town/village. As with most small Spanish centres at that time of day there was absolutely no one about, and all was well-and-truly shut, shuttered and bolted. Eventually we found a Spanish pilgrim who was doggedly determined to walk a further 4 Km to Riego del Camino where there was an albergue. The South African thought to accompany him. 4 Km is no great distance but at that time, it was utterly beyond me. I said I would trudge back to the bar and enquire of any bus services. I did this. There was a bus, but I simply couldn't understand the barman's instructions. Two young men outside the bar showed interest and, in time, I understood the bus would stop further down the road and to the left. I trudged to what might have been a bus shelter. I couldn't sit inside it -it was like an oven, literally. I sat on the ground outside in the shade. In time, (and not a short time) a bus came along. Despite my most vigorous gesticulations, it sailed right past. Now, what would I do? I can't spend the night here because, once the sun goes down, it could get quite cold. By now I was utterly exhausted, so what did I do? I fell asleep. Right there in this odd, little Spanish village, propped up against a bus shelter, I slept for at least an hour. When I woke, I felt a little better. The sun was still strong. I wandered further into the village and found shade outside the building where the doctor visits twice a week. I slept some more.

On next waking, it was getting on in late afternoon. I had to do something. My state would probably now allow a further 4 Km walk. I set off, but this time I followed the road. I hitch- hiked as I walked. No one stopped!! I trundled into the village of Riego del Camino, my original destination for the day. How about that?  I scoured the village looking for an albergue. I asked, and followed the directions I was given to the best of my understanding. And still, no albergue. I acknowledged that my bed bug encounter had certainly made me wary of albergues, but surely not to the point of denying their existence. Yet I could not find any accommodation in this place.

The next town was Granja de Moreruelo. My guide book told me there was both a local shelter (albergue) there and a hotel. Granja was a further 6 Km. What was that after what I'd already covered? I set off for Granja. It was now 7 pm. Surely I'd get there by 9. It is still light until after 10, so I should be OK.

I easlily found my way out of the village and made good progress. Unfortunately the Camino runs through an extended region where major roadworks are underway. It seems to me that road builders show little respect for yellow arrows. They quickly disappear and, within minutes, the pilgrim can be totally lost. And this is what happened late in the evening to me.

The Camino was meant to run parallel to the road into Granja. This made sense. When the yellow arrows disappeared, I found myself on a track getting further and further away from the road - and there was major motorway construction between me and the road. I determined I needed to get onto the road and stay with it. I was faced with a deep cutting excavation separating me from the road. There was nothing for it but to go cross country. I slithered down the embankment on the near side, crossed the somewhat muddy, rough and unfinished motorway formation, then I was faced with scaling the far embankment. Despite my weary state I battled on. I'd make good progress, ascend so far, then miss a foothold and slither downward. I could only see the funny side of the situation. Here I was, doing a geriatric Bear Grylls act for all the world to see - and no one was watching! (This was probably just as well!) I lost a precious small bottle of water, but there was no way I was going down after it.

Finally I surmounted the crest. I ploughed through a cereal field and clambered up the small embankment to the road shoulder. I had about 5 Km of road walking before Granja. I entered the town around 9 pm (my latest arrival time yet). I made to go through the town to seek out the hotel. A family on the roadside bailed me up, pointing to the albergue I'd deliberately passed. To reinforce the point, the male kindly led me across the road and into the establishment. Ah well, I was too tired to argue, and probably grateful to have the decision made for me. As it happened, the albergue was excellent.

 I had the most wonderful sleep, and rose surprisingly fresh and early the next morning.

This has been a mammoth entry, and for those readers who have stayed with me, I say, "thank you". I would also record that, with the whole experience, I feel WONDERFUL. I can't explain it. It was truly a  gruelling day, but I learnt so much from it. The sense of achievement I feel at overcoming so many obstacles is something most precious. God is teaching me much in this Camino. I have more to say about this. I hope you stay with me.

It is said that the Camino is a profoundly personal experience. Each person walks "their own" Camino. This day I think I might have walked a Camino that no other person has, or ever will, walk. And I thank God for the opportunity and experience.